Excellent optical performance with the mechanical robustness of any Rolleiflex. If your top end is $500 for everything, stick with a late model Automat, like an MX-EVS with a Tessar or Xenar lense for $200-300. My 2 cents - What is your real budget? Is it $500 total or can you stretch for another $150-300 to include a CLA (not to mention another $100 for a lens hood and Rolleifix), which is likely necessary unless you find a camera that already has proof of a recent CLA by a reputable technician. Do check for serious problems such as dents, distortion play in the front panel and lens problems first. But you could probably get a clean, though well used C from a sensible dealer.
it would not be easy to get a really nice one for $500. If you fnd a good one within your price range, buy it, and don't worry too much about which letter (I would personally avoid the "A"). Separation can be identified before buying, and can be repaired permanently if it does occur, but it does cost to have this done.Īs for recommendations, it is not easly to find one in nice condition- although there are plenty of rough examples, or those that are almost really nice, but have scratched lenses, fungus in the optics etc. The only thing that can really kill a Rollei relates to lens defects, particularly balsam separation (the material they used to use to hold two glass elements together on the Planar/Xenotar lenses).
They will all will hold up another decade or two if they've made it this far, right?
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